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The
Master Gardener Articles
SO, YOU WANT
A PERENNIAL FLOWER GARDEN?
Written by Mary McCord, Union County Master
Gardener
Part I
Whether you are a veteran or a brand new gardener, creating a perennial garden
from scratch can be overwhelming. The secret to winding up with a finished
project that is exciting for you and spectacular to all who view it is a
simple matter of asking the right questions.
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Determine your style – do you want a
casual-style cottage garden or a manicured formal Victorian look? If
you are not sure, look for ideas – they are all around you. Find pictures
in magazines that really inspire you, go on local garden tours and see what
others have created, visit your local nurseries, drive around town &
take pictures (and notes) of plants that you really like (or dislike).
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Identify your purpose - do you want
to attract butterflies & hummingbirds, cover a problem area in your yard,
create a “living wall” along your property line, or lay out a “welcome mat”
of color up to your front door?
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Understand the commitment - do you plan
to spend happy hours in the garden with all your plants or do you want to
complete the seasonal “check-up and oil change” and be done with it.
How much time do you have to trim, prune, weed, water, etc. - determining
this up front will help you select the right plants for your new garden.
The first step requires walking – walk slowly
around your property and look closely at your yard – where do you want to
put your new garden? Once you have decided this, it is time to track
& measure. Look at this area several times during a sunny day –
you need to determine how much total sunlight it will get, and from what
direction. If the answer is “none”, that’s OK too; there are plenty
of shade loving plants that grow well in this area. Get a tape measure
or yardstick and determine the measurements of the area you want to plant.
The second step requires drawing – this just has to be a sketch, and you
don’t have to let anyone else see it. Take a sheet of paper and outline
the basic shape of your area. Is it going to be square, round, rectangular,
oblong, kidney shaped………Will your garden line the driveway, back up to an
existing structure, or be out in the open? All of this will come into
play later when we talk about height, color, and texture.
The next step is to get dirty – you need to know what type of soil you have
to work with. Push a spade into the chosen area and turn up some soil – pick
up a handful and rub it between your fingers. Does it feel gritty? Does it
stick together when you squeeze it? Will it crumble when you tap on
it? Soil can go from extremely dry and sandy to heavy, wet and sticky.
The latter is more common in this area – it is called clay soil and it can
be a little trickier to work with. Clay clumps together and holds moisture
– you may need to amend this soil with some organic matter (compost, peat,
seasoned manure, decayed leaves, builder’s sand, etc..) to help lighten it
up and improve drainage. You also will want to look for plants that
will grow well in clay soil.
Record your area measurements and add notes
about the soil and light levels. Since no one is going to see this,
go ahead and sketch in any buildings, walls, fences, etc. that are close
to your planting area. Now, draw arrows showing compass direction (north,
south, east & west) and add notes about the background that will be behind
your garden.
Time to think about color – if you know the color palate you want,
jot this down as well. You now have all of the information that
you need to start selecting plant material.
No matter where you purchase your plants, there is certain information that
must come with them in order for you to make wise choices. The minimum
you will need to know is:
Height – how
tall will this plant grow?
Spread – how wide will
it grow?
Sun Exposure – does it
need full sun, partial shade, shade…
Hardiness zone – you are
in zone 5, If it says zone 7 – 9, leave it at the nursery.
Flower color – pink, white,
etc… (sometimes the picture is missing).
Flowering Date – late
spring, mid-summer, early fall…..
Soil requirements – well
drained loose soil, grows well in clay soils**, needs moist, fertile soil,
etc….
This is probably all of the information
you will get from the average local nursery, but you do have other resources.
If you have joined the cybernet generation, go surfing for online nursery
catalogs; they all have a wealth of information. If not, then borrow
your neighbor’s catalog or go to the library. This is a critical step
in your project; you must match your plant choices to the soil and light
conditions of your chosen garden area.
Make a list of all the plants that you really like and study them.
Arrange them on your sheet by height, color and flowering time. Make your
final decision on the color palate you like. Start eliminating plants
until you are down to 3 height ranges and 4 colors (these can either blend
or be contrasting colors). Remember you will get additional color and
structure from the foliage of these plants, as well – sometimes this can
be more interesting than the flower itself. Also remember that your garden
is a living project that will change continually – we are just focusing on
the basics to get it started.
In Part II – You Will Work With Your Plan to Create Your Perennial
Garden.
The Master
Gardener Offers horticulture advice and tips, focusing on current
issues by volunteers who are with The Ohio State University Extension,
Union County Master Gardener Program. For answers to gardening questions,
call 937.644.8117 or e-mail gmcvey@ag.osu.edu. Hours are
8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.
All educational programs conducted by Ohio State
University Extension are available to clientele on a nondiscriminatory
basis without regard to race, color, creed, religion, sexual orientation,
national origin, gender, age, disability or Vietnam-era veteran
status.
Keith L. Smith, Associate Vice President for Ag.
Admin. and Director, OSU Extension TDD No. 800-589-8292 (Ohio only)
or 614-292-1868
Revised May, 2006
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